DAY 1 - Cape Reinga Lighthouse -> Bluff Campsite
I had been thinking about this day almost every single moment for the last few months, and it finally arrived. I’d caught a lift from a local from Kaitaia up to the Cape and it was surreal getting that first proper view of the lighthouse in person: something I had seen in countless pictures in my research leading up to this.
I walked up to the lighthouse with the 3 other hikers I had been dropped off with and stood by it almost feeling like I was at the end of the world; the endless expanse of ocean on one side and the looming 3000km trail across the country on the other. The weather was perfect, a perfectly sunny day with just a few clouds dotted across the sky.
I made sure to take my time to really bask in the moment and consider the long walk ahead, but after a while 8 finally took those first steps from the lighthouse to mark the beginning of my 3000km trek across New Zealand.
The walk started easy. I quickly moved ahead of 2 of the other hikers but generally kept pace with another man doing the trek from Brighton named Oscar. A stunning descent across the ridges down to the first beach was followed by a few ups and downs across dunes and hills, then across one last beach to reach the first campsite at the 12km mark.
I settled to have a quick lunch with the expectation Oscar also wanting to carry on to the next campsite… a whole 28km further on. But when he started to set up his tent I realised I was on my own, so after having a few quick gourmet cheese wraps I picked up my bag and was back off on the trail just before 1pm.
A while of walking through shrubs and over hills brought me to the view I was most looking forward to in the early days of this hike. I passed over the top of the final hill to get my first look at 90 Mile Beach, stretching off into the horizon. The fact I couldn’t even see the end where my campsite would be and could just barely see the halfway point (marked by a small island that lay parallel to it in the ocean) was an incredibly powerful image. For a moment I just wanted to stand there and really take in the vastness of it, especially as this would be the sole place I’d be walking for at least the next 3 days.
I eventually made my way down onto the beach and began slowly making my way along towards the campsite. The prospect of 24km of straight beach very quickly turned my attitude from awe of the stunning site of the beach to a sort of contempt for the monotony of it. All I really had to look at to properly monitor my progress was to focus on the island, 12km from the start, knowing that once I reached it I was halfway.
That moment did take forever but eventually I reached it, taking a moment to look in both directions of the beach at the hill I had just come from fading away and the now visible outcrop on the other side where my campsite was.
28km down. 12km to go. I picked up my pack and pushed on for the last straight, honestly largely zoning out at points and finding myself suddenly teleporting a couple kilometres down the beach. After what felt like an eternity, I had reached the outcrop of land and my campsite just before 7pm.
It seemed I was the only one there to have attempted the trek straight from the Cape which I must admit was a good feeling. After a little socialising and sorting out some food I was exhausted from my marathon and was in bed sleeping by 9pm after a successful first day.
Distance walked: 41.89km (based off my Strava for the day)
Total distance: 40/3039km (based off km markers on the Te Araroa trail app)
DAY 2 - Bluff Campsite -> Hukatere Lodge Campsite
This was potentially the most difficult walk I have ever done. And not because of the length because I’ve walked further in one go. But because of the sand.
Lots of sand. Too much sand. 30km of sand. For 30km I yearned for something interesting to see in the distance to focus on as I got closer. A log. Maybe a stationary car. Something that wasn’t a sand dune. Anything but sand.
The time went by immensely slowly, one leg in front of the other in a perfectly straight line for 6 hours on hard beach. The only saving grace was when with about 2 hours to go I caught up with an Aussie gentleman named Ray who provided great company for the rest of the trek and stopped me from wanting to give up and stick my thumb out for a passing car to take pity on me.
At least we arrived at the campsite before 2pm, giving me plenty of time to recover and feel sorry for myself as I thought about the last 32km of beach waiting for me tomorrow.
Distance walked: 30.53km
Total distance: 70/3039km
DAY 3 - Hukatere Lodge Campsite -> Ahipara
One last day of beach and I’d finally be past what I thought would honestly be the hardest part of the whole trek for me personally. 32km of beach left to go, and it helped at the very least that we could see the land in the distance that we were slowly edging towards to mark our freedom from the sandy wasteland.
I set off alone and was pushed on by a long call with family as I trudged on down the beach, albeit whilst ignoring my uncles suggestions that I should go for a swim. After almost 2 hours Ray and another fella named Mike from Alaska caught up to me and I carried on walking with them.
Even if not speaking it’s always easier hiking with people especially for segments of the trail like this as you help to keep each other at a decent pace. At the 17km mark we reached the first campsite, one which many of the walkers from our previous location would be stopping at for the day. But we were all determined to be off the beach for good so after a quick lunch and more gourmet cheese wraps me and Mike carried on for the last 14km to Ahipara.
The wind decided now would be a great time to pick up and try and force us backwards but at this point we didn’t care. The cluster of buildings hugging the mountains up ahead was drawing tantalisingly closer and we were too excited by the prospect of a proper meal and a hot shower.
After another 6 hours of walking we finally made it to our campsite and before 3pm so with plenty of time to spare. A few well earned beers were enjoyed along with the celebration that I would never have to set foot on that beach again.
These first three days were difficult but I’m glad to say at no point did I actually want to give up. I knew physically this Section would be easy enough, I just knew it was much more of a mental battle. But 3 days and 100km later I’m past it, and more than ready for the rest of the trail to come. 2,900km to go.
Distance walked: 32.54km
Total distance: 101/3039km
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